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"The journey not the arrival matters."
– T.S. Eliot
South
Devon, England
May 23-30, 2012
The
county of Devon in south-west England holds a special place in British
hearts: it instantly conjures images of sunny coastlines, wooded valleys,
robust red-cheeked farmers tending red Devon cattle on rich pastures.
From these lush farms and their contented cows, we get the legendary
Devonshire cream teas.
But this ancient land holds a deeper meaning: here it is that the first
people to these islands settled. They entered sheltered harbours like
the Dart, then followed rushing streams inland up those deeply notched
valleys. Climbing higher onto the rounded flanks of the great granite
dome which fo
rms the heart of Devon, they chose sites above the forest
to create the first farms 6,000 years ago. Their ancient field boundaries
and stone huts can still be seen on the hillsides of Dartmoor. Here the
lively torrent of the Dart rises, cutting down through twisted oak forests
where deer and badger hide and buzzards wheel, then meanders out through
farmland to the old port of Totnes, then snakes down the 7-mile estuary
of the Dart river and out to the sea at Dartmouth.
We will be based
in the historic town of Dartmouth and explore the coast and combes of
Devon from the shelter of the estuary. Here ships gathered to leave for
the Crusades, local fishermen set off for the fishing grounds of Newfoundland,
the Mayflower took last supplies before crossing to the New World and
D-Day forces deployed from this coast. It has always been the birthplace
of mariners and explorers, like Francis Drake, Walter Raleigh and John
Davis the Arctic explorer.
We
will follow the coasts and picnic on secluded beaches; climb the hills
and explore the wild landscapes of Dartmoor which inspired writers like
Conan Doyle to pit his hero Sherlock Holmes against the legendary “Hound
of the Baskervilles”, stroll past thatched cottages, and visit
some of the oldest pubs in Britain (the Cherub Inn in Dartmouth is over
600 years old!) The narrow lanes, rural byways and coastal tracks of
Devon hold many surprises. Each field and headland has its own story
to tell.
There is nowhere in Britain more steeped in history, and no county more maritime
than Devon. From Dartmoor, down the Dart to Dartmouth we will explore on foot
at the finest turn of the year, for May brings the full glory of the European
spring when flowers are fresh and bird song fills the air.
Download
the Day by Day Itinerary (pdf).
Download the Day by Day Itinerary (pdf).
Our Itinerary
Wednesday, May 23 – Arrival
Arrive in Dartmouth and check in at the Dart Marina Hotel, 69 Sandquay
Rd, Dartmouth. The tour officially begins with our 7:30PM dinner at
the hotel, however please meet for a welcome drink in the hotel bar
at 7PM. After dinner our guide will give us a preview of our program
for the week ahead. Lodging: Dart
Marina Hotel -
tel: 011 44 1803 832 580
Thursday, May 24- Forest, Ferries and Estuaries
We leave our hotel at 9:00AM and walk through the lanes of Dartmouth
over Fire Beacon Hill to fantastic views of E. Brixham and the sea. Our
lunch spot is at picturesque Dittisham Village. Afterwards we ferry across
to Greenway, the holiday home of Agatha Christie. At this point we have
a choice: tour Agatha Christie’s home and gardens then ferry back
to Dartmouth—or—walk back through oak woods to Dartmouth.
Distance: 5.5/8 miles; about 750/ 1,000ft total elevation gain over the
day depending on option taken. Dinner together.
Friday, May 25 - Cliffs, Combes and Stately Homes
Today we walk the harbor shore to the Kingswear ferry, then 2 miles through
the green Devon valleys (“combs”) to the stately home at
Coleton Fishacre. The house and gardens are immaculately maintained by
the National Trust and make a perfect lunch spot. We then descend through
ornamental shrubs to emerge on the cliffs at Pudcombe Cove. Our return
3-mile walk along a rugged coastline passes Froward coastguard lookout
and gives fine views to the fortified entrance of Dartmouth harbor. Once
across the ferry we walk back through old Dartmouth to our hotel.Distance:
5.5 miles; about 500 ft total elevation gain today. Dinner on your own.
Saturday, May 26 - Dartmoor: Moors, Tors, Heather and Gorse
An 8:30 a.m. start with a minibus trip up to Bel Tor, E Dartmoor. A 7.5mile
circuit takes in Bronze Age field systems, fragments of original wild
oakwood, abandoned Saxon settlements, and the wild pony-grazed landscape
of heather and bracken punctuated by eroded granite tors (bare rock pinnacles).
We finish by dropping down to Dartmeet, where east and west Dart River
converge, with a chance for a welcome cup of tea before leaving at 4:00
p.m. to drive back to Dartmouth. Distance: 7.5 miles with total elevation
gain of 600ft. Dinner together.
Sunday, May 27 - Day at Leisure
Our guide will lead a 1-2 hour historical tour of the old town for those
who wish it (churches, guildhall, and historical characters). After which
there are many options for your personal day: take the boat trip up the
estuary to Totnes; the ferry to Greenway to visit Agatha Christie's holiday
home (if you didn’t already), now restored; steam train from Kingswear
to Torquay (and coastal tour back to Dartmouth); visit a local vineyard;
or just relax in town and watch the boats, the visitors, and try out
Devon pasties and clotted cream teas. Lunch on your own. Dinner together.
Monday, May 28 - Cliffs, Crags and D-Day flags
We start with a bus ride south to the Start headland. A mile downhill
we reach the dramatic coastline of Lannacombe Bay, with views out to
Prawle Point (the most southerly landmark in Devon). From here we walk
east, round Start Point with its gleaming white lighthouse, then turn
north along more sheltered paths….(Hallsands, Beesands). Our
reward awaits at Torcross seafront village, famed for its Devon cream
teas. A salvaged 1944 Sherman tank here reminds us of the key role
this coastline played in the D-Day landings, but the local bus will
provide a more comfortable ride home for us. Distance 7.5 miles; about
500 ft elevation gain. Dinner on your own.
Tuesday, May 29 - Ups and
Downs to Dartmouth Town
We take the 9:15AM bus from Dartmouth to Strete village, and then walk
the 6.5mile coastline back to Dartmouth. Our walk takes us past a cluster
of old thatched cottages to Blackpool Sands, then up through Stoke
Fleming village (old church and village pub and a chance for a picnic
and pint). We enjoy a splendid open coast mile to Dartmouth Fort and
the church of St.Petrox. For the weary there is a local ferry (£2.00)
to run you the last mile up the estuary to the town, but this last
walk into Dartmouth is a spectacular approach to the old town, and
magnificent on foot. This is designed as an easy last day, with plenty
of chances to cut the day short for either last shopping or packing.
Distance: 6.5 miles today with a total elevation gain of 500 ft. Farewell
dinner together.
Wednesday, May 30 - Breakfast and departure.
Please Note: The above schedule is subject to change due to weather or other circumstances beyond our control.
© 2010 - 2011 KDavis Travels
